When your garage roof starts dripping, it’s tempting to grab whatever’s handy — sealant, tape, a plastic sheet — and hope it lasts until “next month”. Temporary fixes can be useful to reduce damage, but some quick hacks actually make leaks worse, hide bigger problems, or create safety risks.
This UK-focused guide covers:
- temporary fixes that can genuinely help for a short time
- what not to do (and why)
- the signs you should stop patching and get proper repair/replacement quotes
First: what a “temporary fix” is really for
A temporary leak fix should do one thing: buy you time while you arrange a proper repair. It shouldn’t be treated as a long-term solution.
A good temporary fix should:
- reduce water getting inside
- not damage the roof covering further
- not create a fall hazard
- be removable without leaving a bigger mess
Safety first (before any “fix”)
- If water is near electrics (lights, sockets, garage door motors), switch off the garage circuit if safe.
- Avoid climbing onto the roof — garages often have awkward access, and some roofs are fragile.
- If your garage roof is corrugated cement sheets and older, treat it as suspected asbestos and do not disturb it.
Temporary fixes that can work (short-term)
These are the options that can reduce damage without making the real repair harder.
1) Bucket + towel “drip management” (inside the garage)
This is often the safest immediate option.
Best for
- active drips you can’t stop right now
- leaks during storms or overnight
How to do it well
- Put a bucket/tray under the drip
- Place an old towel around it to stop splashes
- Move stored items away from the wet area
- Ventilate the garage to reduce damp
Why it works: It prevents puddles, protects possessions, and keeps you safe while you book a proper repair.
2) Tarpaulin / plastic sheeting (external cover)
A tarp can help if you can place it safely without climbing onto the roof.
Best for
- larger leak areas where water is running under a lifted edge
- flat roofs where you can safely reach from a ladder with support
Key rules (so it actually helps)
- Cover from above the leak point, not just where it drips inside
- Ensure water will run over the tarp, not under it
- Weigh down securely (and safely) so wind can’t lift it
- Avoid sharp edges that tear the tarp
When it becomes a bad idea
- High winds (it can become a sail)
- You can’t secure it safely
- You’d need to nail or staple it into the roof covering
3) Clear a blocked gutter / outlet (only if safe)
If the “roof leak” is actually overflowing gutters, clearing them can help immediately.
Best for
- leaks that start right at the front edge during heavy rain
- obvious overflow during downpours
What to do
- Clear visible debris you can reach safely
- Check the downpipe isn’t blocked at the top
- Don’t overreach on ladders or do this in bad weather
4) Redirect water away from the edge (quick drainage help)
Sometimes the problem is water “tracking” back under an edge.
Best for
- flat roofs where water runs back due to poor edge detailing
- obvious drips right along the front edge
Temporary idea
- Ensure gutters are not overflowing
- If safe, add a temporary deflector or redirect the run-off so it drips away from the wall
(Still needs a proper edge detail fix.)
5) Minor patch repairs (only if you know the roof system)
This can be valid short-term — but only for certain roofs and only if done properly.
Best for
- a clear puncture on EPDM
- a small split on felt where you can patch properly
- a localised GRP crack repair (often needs the right materials)
The catch
Using the wrong product (or applying it in the wrong conditions) is one of the quickest ways to waste money and end up with a bigger leak.
Temporary fixes that are usually a bad idea (and why)
1) “Just slap on silicone / sealant”
This is the classic mistake.
Why it’s a bad idea
- Water often gets in under the surface — sealant rarely fixes the real path
- Sealant fails quickly on wet, cold, or dirty roofs
- It can trap moisture and make future repairs harder
When it might be okay: as a very short-term patch in dry conditions on a clean surface — but even then, it’s rarely the best approach.
2) Roof leak spray foam
Spray foam looks like a miracle fix on videos, but it’s often a mess.
Why it’s a bad idea
- It can trap water against timber/decking
- It hides the leak path (roofers can’t diagnose properly)
- It’s a nightmare to remove
- It can turn a repair into a full replacement job
3) Bitumen paint everywhere
Bitumen paint can have a place, but “paint the whole roof and hope” isn’t a proper repair.
Why it’s a bad idea
- It can mask cracks and weak seams temporarily
- It can fail quickly if the roof is already brittle
- It doesn’t fix ponding, outlets, or junction details
4) Patching over ponding water problems
If your roof holds water, patching alone is rarely the answer.
Why it’s a bad idea
Standing water stresses seams and edges. Even a decent patch can fail again if water keeps sitting in the same area.
5) Doing anything that involves drilling, cutting, or snapping corrugated cement sheets
If you suspect asbestos cement, don’t DIY fix it.
Why it’s a bad idea
Disturbing suspected asbestos materials can release fibres. If you’re unsure, treat it as suspected asbestos and get the right professional advice to test and remove asbestos.
When you should stop patching and get proper quotes
Temporary fixes are a warning sign when you’re doing them repeatedly.
It’s time to move on when:
- You’ve patched the same area more than once
- The roof has multiple leak points
- Felt is brittle, cracking, blistering widely
- Corrugated sheets are cracked/rusted in several places
- Water is sitting on the roof after rain (ponding)
- The roof deck feels soft or sagging inside the garage
- The leak is near a wall junction/flashings and keeps returning
Quick “what should I do?” table
| Situation | Best short-term action | Best next step |
|---|---|---|
| Active dripping inside | bucket + move items | book inspection/repair |
| Leak in heavy rain near front edge | check gutters/outlet | gutter repair + edge detail fix |
| Windy rain leak near house wall | avoid DIY sealing | flashing/junction repair quote |
| Ponding water visible | don’t just patch | drainage/falls assessment |
| Corrugated roof leaking at fixings | don’t over-tighten randomly | fixings/overlaps check or replacement quote |
| Suspected asbestos cement sheets | don’t touch | specialist advice/quote |
What to include in your quote request (copy/paste)
- Postcode
- Roof type (flat felt / EPDM / GRP / corrugated / pitched)
- When it leaks (heavy rain / windy rain / after rain)
- Where it drips (front edge / near wall / corner / centre)
- Any ponding water, overflow gutters, lifted edges
- Single/double garage (or rough size)
- Access notes (tight driveway, attached garage)
FAQs
What’s the best temporary fix for a leaking garage roof?
For most homeowners, the safest temporary option is managing drips inside (bucket + moving items) and using a tarp only if it can be done safely without climbing onto the roof.
Does silicone sealant stop a roof leak?
Sometimes briefly, but it rarely fixes the real leak path on roofs. It often fails quickly on wet or cold surfaces and can make proper repairs harder.
Should I use leak repair spray foam?
Generally no. It can trap moisture, hide the leak source, and make future repairs more expensive.
How long can I leave a temporary roof patch?
Only as long as it takes to arrange a proper repair. The longer water gets in, the higher the chance of timber/decking damage and mould.
